To truly know a country, you have to taste it. In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the food tells a story. It’s a story of Ottoman influences and Balkan traditions, of simple ingredients and slow cooking, of recipes passed down through generations. This isn’t about fancy dining; it’s about hearty, flavorful, and deeply satisfying food that feels like a warm welcome.
But the best dishes aren’t all in one place. The legendary burek of Sarajevo, the unique ćevapi of Travnik, the famous roast lamb of Jablanica—they are scattered across the country like culinary treasures.
This is your road map to finding them. This is a food lover’s itinerary, a journey to the most authentic and beloved food experiences in Bosnia. And the essential ingredient for this adventure? A rental car, giving you the freedom to chase down every last delicious bite. For a city-hopping trip like this, a comfortable compact car or sedan is the perfect companion.
The Starting Point: Perfecting the Art of Burek in Sarajevo
Your culinary journey begins in the heart of Sarajevo’s old town, Baščaršija. Your mission: to find the perfect pita. This is the general name for the flaky filo pastry pies that are a Bosnian staple. When it’s filled with minced meat, it’s called burek. With cheese, it’s sirnica; with spinach, zeljanica.
The experience is everything. Head to a traditional buregdžinica like Sač or Bosna, where you’ll see the masters at work, stretching the dough by hand until it’s paper-thin. Order a slice “by the weight,” and they’ll cut a steaming piece from a huge round tray. The classic way to eat it is with a glass of cold plain yogurt (jogurt) to cut through the richness. It’s the perfect, hearty breakfast to fuel a day of exploring.
- Insider Tip: If a local asks you what kind of burek you want, the answer is always “meat.” In Bosnia, if it doesn’t have meat, it’s not burek, it’s just pita!
The Vizier’s Choice: Hunting for Travnik’s Unique Ćevapi
Leave Sarajevo and take the scenic 90-minute drive to the historic city of Travnik. While you may have already tried ćevapi (small, grilled sausages of minced meat) in Sarajevo, the version here is a matter of intense local pride and is completely different.
Travnik ćevapi are served in a special flatbread (lepinja) with a unique flavour, and the meat itself has its own secret recipe. The most legendary place to try them is Ćevabdžinica Hari, located near the beautiful Plava Voda (Blue Water) spring. Sit outside by the gurgling stream, order a portion of ten (deset u pola s kajmakom – ten in a half-flatbread with cream cheese), and understand why this city was once the capital of Ottoman viziers. They knew where to find the good stuff.
The Main Event: The Legendary Roadside Roast Lamb of Jablanica
As you drive the stunning canyon road from Sarajevo towards Mostar, you’ll pass through the small town of Jablanica. You’ll know you’re there before you see the sign. The air fills with the irresistible smell of woodsmoke and roasting meat. This is the home of Bosnia’s most famous culinary experience: janjetina sa ražnja, or spit-roasted lamb.
You’ll see a row of restaurants, each with several whole lambs turning slowly over open fires right by the road. This isn’t just a meal; it’s a spectacle. Stop at a famous spot like Restoran Kovačević or Zdrava Voda. You don’t order a “plate”; you order by the kilogram. A waiter will carve the succulent, tender meat directly from the spit onto a platter for you. Served simply with fresh bread and raw onions, it’s a primal and unforgettable feast. This is the ultimate road trip food.
A Taste of the River: Fresh Trout in Herzegovina
After the richness of lamb, it’s time to lighten things up in the sunny south. The crystal-clear, ice-cold rivers that flow out of the mountains of Herzegovina are home to some of the most delicious freshwater trout (pastrmka) you will ever taste.
The key is the setting. Drive to Blagaj, near Mostar, where the Buna River springs from a cliff. Here, restaurants like Vrelo Borje have terraces built directly over the rushing water. Or head to the historic town of Stolac and find a restaurant among the old mills on the Bregava River. There is nothing better than enjoying a simple, perfectly grilled trout, seasoned with garlic and parsley, while listening to the sound of the river it came from just a few feet away.
The Northern Rival: Trying Banja Luka’s Famous Ćevap
Your final stop takes you north to Banja Luka, a city that has its own, fiercely defended style of ćevapi. Unlike the individual sausages of Sarajevo, the Banja Luka version sees the ćevapi joined together to form a small patty or tile, which is then grilled.
Locals will argue endlessly about which version is better. The only way to know is to try it for yourself. Head to a classic institution like Kod Muje, order a portion with a draft beer, and enjoy the unique texture and flavour. It’s the perfect way to cap off your culinary tour of the country, tasting a regional specialty that defines the city.
Your Culinary Map of Bosnia
From the pies of Sarajevo to the grills of Banja Luka, the best way to understand the culture of Bosnia and Herzegovina is through its incredible food. This delicious journey is spread across the entire country, with each region offering its own proud speciality.
The only way to connect all these amazing tastes is with the freedom of a rental car. Browse our fleet of comfortable cars, plan your foodie adventure, and get ready to taste the real Bosnia and Herzegovina.